Why the Yorkshire coast rewards two wheels

The coast between Spurn Point and the Tees is only about ninety miles as the crow flies, but the riding in between is far more varied than most people expect. You get flat, sea-level miles along the Humber, chalk cliffs with puffins on them, thousand-year-old abbey towns, and moorland roads that climb to 400 metres within sight of the sea. Much of it is on old railway lines, which means gradients that were gentle enough for steam engines and surfaces that suit families as well as seasoned riders. Add a decent rail network linking the main towns and you have one of the best linear cycling stretches in Britain.

The Cinder Track: Whitby to Scarborough

This is the coast's signature ride, and the one to do first. The Cinder Track follows the old Whitby to Scarborough railway, closed in the 1960s, for roughly 21 miles of almost entirely traffic-free riding. From Whitby you climb steadily past the Larpool Viaduct and through Hawsker before the high point at Ravenscar — around 180 metres up, and the toughest sustained pull on the route. After that it is largely downhill or level through Robin Hood's Bay and on to Scalby Mills on the edge of Scarborough.

The surface is a mix of tarmac and compacted gravel. Anything from 32mm tyres upwards is comfortable; a pure road bike will manage but is not ideal. Note that the descent into Robin Hood's Bay village is steep, cobbled and busy — lock up at the top and walk down.

• Distance: about 21 miles one way
• Best bike: hybrid, gravel or e-bike
• Refreshments: Whitby, Hawsker, Robin Hood's Bay, Ravenscar, Scalby Mills
• Watch for: walkers and dogs around Robin Hood's Bay, and gates on the northern half

Flamborough Head and the chalk lanes

From Bridlington, the lanes out to Flamborough Head are quiet and rewarding, with short, sharp climbs off every beach and a lot of exposure to the wind. The reward is some of the best seabird scenery in England: Bempton Cliffs and the surrounding headland host puffins, guillemots, razorbills and gannets, with the season running roughly from April to early July. By August most birds have gone, so time your ride accordingly.

Loop in the lighthouse, North Landing and Thornwick Bay for a half-day of riding, and keep an eye on the road surface — these lanes carry farm traffic and are often muddier than they look.

Old mineral lines and moorland edges

Inland from the coast, the Rosedale Railway is a gem: an ironstone line built in the 1860s and converted into a track that loops around the head of the valley. It is exposed, high and quiet, and can be combined with a circuit down to Rosedale Abbey. Further east, Blakey Ridge runs high across the moors between Hutton-le-Hole and Castleton, with long views and a surface that suits a gravel or touring bike far better than skinny tyres.

For contrast, head south to the flat Holderness plain and the Spurn peninsula. The spit is fragile and access changes with erosion and tidal repairs, so check locally before setting out — but when it is open, riding out to the end with the Humber on one side and the North Sea on the other is unforgettable.

The hard stuff: Rosedale Chimney and coastal climbs

If you want a proper test, Rosedale Chimney delivers. Rising out of Rosedale Abbey, it hits around 1 in 3 at its steepest, with a hairpin that has embarrassed better riders than you. It is regularly named among the toughest climbs in the country, and it is short enough to be survivable and steep enough to be memorable.

Closer to the sea, the pulls out of Sandsend towards Whitby and up from Runswick Bay are short and vicious, and they come with views that almost justify the effort. Bring low gears.

Practicalities: wind, tides, trains and kit

The prevailing south-westerly means that riding north along the coast is generally easier than riding south. Plan linear routes northwards and take the train back from Whitby, Scarborough, Filey or Bridlington. Space for bikes is limited, particularly in summer, so travel early, travel late, or travel midweek and be prepared to wait for the next service.

Tides matter more than most people think. Filey Brigg and Spurn both need checking, and a sea fret can drop visibility on the cliff tops in minutes even on a warm day.

• Water and food: village shops close early out of season — carry more than you need
• Spares: tubes, a pump and a multi-tool; coastal bike shops are few and far between
• Layers: the temperature drops sharply on the moorland edges and in the sea fog
• Lights: useful on shared paths and essential if you are catching a late train

Do one big linear ride, one short family-friendly railway path, and one hilly day inland, and you will have seen the Yorkshire coast in a way that drivers simply never manage.